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The Oxford Wine Forum ñ in conjunction with Champagne Laurent-Perrier
Organised by Michael Palij MW and Graham Harding, a full line-up of Masters of Wine were on hand to instruct and entertain during a truly memorable day:
- David Hesketh MW of Laurent-Perrier Champagne on ëthe Magic of Champagneí.
- Richard Bampfield MW, Oxford Wine Club favourite, on ëthe virtues of Bordeaux - Old vs. Newí.
- Mark de Vere MW of Robert Mondavi on ëTerroir in the New Worldí.
- Bringing a forgotten wine back to life: James Simpson MW on ëthe re-birth of Tokají.
Forty pioneers from Oxford and London were treated to an extraordinary day of tasting at Wolfson College, Oxford. It started with Laurent-Perrierís remarkable Ultra Brut, a wine that held its own right through a David Hesketh MW led champagne tasting that started good and finished great. Laurent Perrierís own Grande SiËcle, Roedererís Cristal and Pol Rogerís CuvÈe Sir Winston Churchill were the final stars of the first tasting. Every wine was meticulously presented by David, representing Laurent-Perrier ñ generous sponsors of the first Oxford Wine Forum.
A big hand for David Hesketh MW.
A grand line-up of magnificent Champagne (6 out of 10 were in magnums).
The complete line-up was: Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut; Sainsburyís Own Label Blanc de Noirs NV; Veuve Cliquot Yellow Label NV; MoÎt et Chandon Rose; Laurent-Perrier CuvÈe RosÈ Brut; Laurent-Perrier Vintage 1985; Laurent-Perrier Vintage 1995; Laurent-Perrier La CuvÈe Grand SiËcle; Louis Roederer Cristal 1997; and Pol Roger CuvÈe Sir Winston Churchill.
Second up was Richard Bampfield MW on Bordeaux Old and New. Richard presented three pairs of wines:
- 2001 Exigence díYvon Mau, AC Bordeaux SupÈrieur / 2000 Ch’teau Bernadotte, Cru Bourgeois, AC Haut-Medoc
- 1998 Ch’teau Camensac, Grand Cru ClassÈ, AC Haut-Medoc / 1999 Ch’teau Brown, AC Pessac-LÈognan
- Ch’teau LÈoville-Lascases, Grand Cru ClassÈ, AC Saint-Julien / 1997 La Grange-Neuve de Figeac, AC Saint Šmilion
ñ each representing aspects of old and new Bordeaux and each pair tasted blind. Richard had finished behind Michael Palij MW in the Bordeaux Marathon, possibly because he had ñ by his own account ñ stopped at every Ch’teau to taste. Here he was definitely master of the occasion. Grand Cru ClassÈ LÈoville-Lascases 1997 was the formal star of the show but for many it was beaten by La Grange-Neuve de Figeac. This was ageing faster than the Lascases but gloriously complex in its aroma and flavour.
Richard Bampfield MW in full flow!
After a wonderful lunch provided by Sarah McCleery with the support of The Grange in Watlington we moved onto California and in particular, expressions of terroir in the Napa Valley. Mark de Vere MW did us proud with some remarkable wines from the very top of the considerable Robert Mondavi range. His exposition of the science and study that had gone into producing these wines was striking testament to Mondaviís determination to produce great wines.
Our thanks go to both Mark for flying over just for us and to Robert Mondavi for donating all the wines for this occassion: 2000 Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros; 2002 Pinot Noir Reserve, Carneros; 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Stags Leap District; 2001 FumÈ Blanc Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville; 2002 ëI Blockí FumÈ Blanc, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville; 2000 Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon; 2000 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon; 2000 To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville.
Lastly, James Simpson MW took us on a tour de force introduction to Tokaj - tradition and innovation. Bricked up cellars, ancient classifications that still hold good today, mould-encrusted bottles, and the fantastic flavours of Tokaj of every puttonyos level from 3 to 6, crowned by the perfect balance and utter complexity of Asz™eszencia. This was the perfect finish to a perfect day.
The full line-up: 2002 Castle Island Furmint; 2000 Oremus Noble Late Harvest; 1993 Crown Estates Tokaji Asz™ 3 puttonyos; 1999 Oremus Tokaji Asz™ 5 puttonyos; 1993 Crown Estates Tokaji Asz™ 5 puttonyos; 1994 Szarvas Tokaji Asz™ 6 puttonyos; 1993 Szarvas Tokaji Asz™eszencia.
G. Harding & K. Hyde.
Photos courtesy of I. Crammond.
To the team pourers: Karen Hyde, Sophie Mack Smith and Sophie Rudge ìBig shout, Respect and much Happy Bling to all of you. Thanks for supporting the first-ever Oxford Wine Forum is such style. Hope to see you all again next year! Best regards, Michael.î
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